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The Arctic Tour de France

Kjøllefjord 70.9458° N, 27.3468° E

The Arctic Race of Norway is the northernmost professional bike race in the world. The multi-day trip has been held since 2013. It is not only of great importance for Norwegian cycling, but also for the country and its people.

Werner Müller Schell visited Kjøllefjord in 2018

Photo by Pauline Ballet

Kjøllefjord is ready for the big festival. The colourful, typically Scandinavian wooden houses are festively decorated; Norwegian flags line the streets as people flock in droves towards the otherwise sleepy town centre. Crowds gather around the point where the town hall, post office and a specialty shop for fishing accessories converge. Barriers have been set up, a large target banner, stages and even several video screens. The small fishing village has been preparing for this day for weeks – and now it’s time for it to shine.

Not much happens here, around a thousand kilometres north of the Arctic Circle, where winters are long and dark and summers are short. Only 950 people live in Kjøllefjord, which is one of the northernmost places on the Norwegian mainland and is only a three-hour boat trip from the famous Nordkapp. Most of the inhabitants work in fishing, reindeer herding or seasonal tourism when the well-known Hurtigruten ships dock in the harbour. If you want to visit Kjøllefjord by land, only one road leads to the coastal village, which is sandwiched between huge granite rocks and the cold ocean. The next settlement after Mehamn is almost 40 kilometres away. In between: a virtually untouched, rugged rocky landscape that is only inhabited by thousands of reindeer.

Kjøllefjord marks end of the second stage of the professional bike race, which since its foundation in 2013 has developed into one of the largest sporting events in the north. Even Norway’s Prime Minister Erna Solberg is expected to arrive in Kjøllefjord by the afternoon. “That is exactly what is unique about our race. We also visit small towns in our region every year, ”says Knut-Eirik Dybdal. He is the managing director of the Arctic Race, which is organised by the creators of the Tour de France.

A flagship for the entire region

A professional bike race, a thousand kilometres north of the Arctic Circle – it was not easy to get here, admits Dybdal, the man who came up with the idea of an Arctic race. The race was conceived during the early 2000s when Norwegian cycling was experiencing an unprecedented upswing. It was a period when Kurt Asle Arvesen, Thor Hushovd, and later Edvald Boasson Hagen and Alexander Kristoff – Norwegian cycling professionals began to establish themselves as some of the best cyclists in the world producing some sensational performances at the Tour de France. At the time, the Tour des Fjords and the Tour of Norway were the two professional stage races in the country. Meanwhile the north – with its harsh weather conditions was not considered a viable cycling region.

This has been an issue that Nord-Norge, the Norwegian term for Northern Norway, has had to contend with throughout its history. Out of more than the 100 major sporting events held in Norway since the Second World War, only one took place in the northern third of the country: the 1990 Speed ​​Skating Sprint World Championship in Tromsø. “We tried to get the Olympic Games and a European Football Championship together with Sweden – but that didn’t work out because, among other things, the necessary sports cities in our sparsely populated region would not have been used afterwards,” explains the race director. A bicycle race for him is the perfect solution to the problem: “You don’t have to build stadiums – the streets already exist. In addition, a stage race offers the opportunity to bridge the large distances between the places here, to show our great landscape and to bring people together. Kjøllefjord is the best example, ”said Dybdal.

On the day of the race almost every inhabitant of the small fishing village is on their feet. Long before the arrival of any cyclists, people gather around the video screens in the town centre to follow the race as it meanders through the Arctic landscape. Many of the Sami living in this region wear their colourful costumes for the festive occasion. There is also a barbecue on the wooden terraces and over 100 children race for bets at the Mini Arctic Race in the town centre. Even if cycling does not play a significant role in the everyday lives of Kjøllefjord’s inhabitants, today the village lives and breathes the sport.

It is the North’s enthusiasm for the sport that enabled Knut-Eirik Dybdal to convince the organisers of the 2011 Tour de France that this could work. It was also the year that Norwegian cycling was at an all time high; with Thor Hushovd donning the world champion’s rainbow jersey, as he won two stages at the Tour de France. Hushvod is also an integral part of the Arctic Race’s history. Dybdal remembers his first phone call with Hushvod with a smile: “I told Thor about our idea of bringing the best cyclists in the world to Northern Norway. He probably thought I was crazy. But he still supported us. ” The Norwegian cycling legend would go on to win the first edition of the Arctic Race in 2013. He is now the race’s official brand ambassador.

Today, Hushovd is attending the race in Kjøllefjord as a spectator. Children ask him for autographs and selfies, he patiently answers the reporter’s questions. “The region here is certainly one of the most beautiful areas in the world – for this reason alone, the Arctic Race is a very special bike race. And there is also the enthusiasm of the people which gives the race a family-friendly feel, ”he explains. A total of eight teams from this year’s Tour de France tackle the four stages from Kirkenes to Alta. Among them are the French mountain king Warren Barguil, the Olympic gold medalist Jakob Fuglsang and the cycling cross world champion Mathieu Van der Poel.

A platform for Norway’s talent

The Norwegian cyclists are just as important for the local fans as the global stars. Local hero August Jensen in particular – who has so far been the only cyclist from the north to go professional – is the main focus of interest. The 26-year-old has participated in all six editions of the Arctic Race of Norway so far and, despite strong competition, was stage winner and second overall last year. Jensen is a symbol of what makes this stage race so special for Norwegians. For the local cycling professionals, it is one of the best opportunities to demonstrate their talent on the international stage. “When I was young, there was none of that – neither a race nor a professional from our region,” explains Jensen.

In Kjøllefjord, many of the spectators are willing him on. But unfortunately it is not his year. The day before, during the opening phase, a tire defect in the finals costs him valuable time. On the way to Kjøllefjord he has been in the favourites group for a long time, but a sudden gust of wind brings him down and he has to bury all hopes for a top position. A disappointed murmur ripples through the rows of spectators when Jensen is shown on the video screen with his tattered jersey. However, the mood quickly rises again – especially when the sounds of the TV helicopter can be heard over the fjord and the final stage begins.

Over the course of the 195 kilometres, the race has developed into one of the most exciting in the competition’s history: splintering into small groups, the peloton chases the finish line down into the fjord – as the stormy, cloud-covered weather adds to the atmosphere. In the end it is the American, Colin Joyce, who wins the final sprint . Third place goes to young Norwegian professional Markus Hoelgaard. For Hoelgaard, who ultimately won the Arctic Race 2018 young talent ranking, it is one of his best moments in his career. “We’re racing against some of the strongest teams in the world. It is one of the most important races of the year for us, ”he says happily at the finish. Norway’s Prime Minister Erna Solberg also arrived in time for the final. “This race is incredibly important for the north”, she states in front of the audience before referring to the promotional aspect the race has for the region: “The Arctic Race generates a lot of interest and, thanks to the fantastic pictures, makes our beautiful Norwegian landscape known to the whole world. “

The race undoubtedly serves as picture-postcard for the unique nature of the north – with northern lights, fjords cut deep into the granite cliffs and wide plains with roaming reindeer. A platform for Norwegian riders to showcase their talents. And a project that made the dream of hosting a major sporting event north of the Arctic Circle a reality in Northern Norway. With the race broadcasted in 160 countries, the creators of the Arctic Race of Norway can be content in the fact that it is has been a rip roaring success. But they are still not satisfied: in the future, race director Knut-Eirik Dybdal dreams of staging a race on the polar island of Spitsbergen, one of the northernmost inhabited areas in the world. “We are extremely enthusiastic here. We can, and want to, push the limits, ”says Dybdal. Having witnessed the enthusiasm for the race in the tranquil Kjøllefjord, it is hard not to believe him.

Arctic Train Travel: overnight between Stockholm and Narvik

The train ride between Stockholm, Sweden and Narvik, Norway is a comfortable, hassle-free environmentally-friendly way of enjoying the beauty of Europe’s Arctic north.

The train begins its journey around six in the evening from Stockholm’s Central Station. You will not have to pass through security or show your passport.

Stockholm, Sweden’s capital, is a scenic in cosmopolitan city with over 2 million inhabitants. Stockholm lies on the same latitude as St Petersburg in Russia, so you can expect cold winters and warm summers. Stockholm, often referred to as the Venice of the north is a beautiful city, situated in in the centre of an archipelago that stretches out into the Baltic sea. The city is well worth a visit, but if are coming from abroad and are intent on heading straight to the Arctic region, you can embark at the train’s first stop, Arlanda Airport.

1st Class

If you have booked a first class ticket, you will be provided with a two bed compartment. Your bed will be ready made with a pillow, duvet and bed sheets. You will also have an ensuite shower which with towels and soap. We really recommend this option for couples on a romantic break, as this compartment cannot be booked by anyone else. Breakfast is provided and you can access the SJ Lounge in Stockholm with your ticket. You cabin will have a window with curtains, so you can enjoy the stunning views when you wake up.

2nd Class

You can book a ticket in either a three-person sleeping cabin or a six-person couchette.

The three-person sleeping cabin, contains three ready made beds. If everyone in the cabin agrees to it, you can pull out the middle bunk and form a sofa. There are no mixed cabins.

The six-person cabin, feels a lot more communal, and we would only recommend this option if you are comfortable sleeping in a cabin with five strangers. Remember there are twenty-eight stops, so there will likely people joining the party later in the night! This is an excellent option if you are a group of people travelling. If you are less that six people, SJ will offer you a reduced rate for the remaining beds. It is common for groups of skiers, to chose this option when travelling to the ski resorts in Northern Sweden.

With both the second-class options you will be given access to a communal shower and toilet. We do not mean everyone will be in there at the same time, despite what stereotypes of the Swedes might have you believe! We do advice that you take a shower when you wake up however, as a queue can build up towards the last leg of the journey.

Scenery

If you are travelling to Narvik in wintertime then you can expect to enjoy between five-six hours of daylight. When you embark at Stockholm, it will already be dark, so you won’t see daylight until around 6-7 the next day. Fortunately, the train will pass through the more dramatic landscapes during the final hours, so you won’t miss everything while you sleep.

Of course if you are travelling during the summer, you can expect only a couple of hours of darkness, so it will be possible to watch the sunrise and sunset from your cabin window.

When you wake up you will be approaching the rounded mountains of Sweden’s north. The train will begin to snake its way around the elevated terrain and you will be able to take in some spectacular views. If people are still sleeping in your cabin, then make your way to the bistro, grab a coffee and enjoy.

After you have passed Kiruna, seven stops before Narvik, the train will be left with mainly tourists and skiers. There are a number of mines in Northern Sweden and workers often take use the train as a convenient way to reach these remote locations. This means that you can probably open the curtains in the six-person cabin and enjoy the views from your bed.

You can book your trip here: https://www.sj.se/en/about/about-sj/our-trains/sj-night-train.html (we are not affiliated with SJ)

Inside a Ski Resort for Refugees

Riksgränsen, 68.4266° N, 18.1253° E

During the winter of 2015/16, a small village, with a population of 40 and situated deep in Swedish Lapland become a temporary home to six hundred refugees. Pascal Vossen and Nils Adler visited Riksgränsen in February 2016.

Photos by Pascal Vossen.

‘One Family’

Children swing from a flimsy steel mesh, designed to separate the hotel’s reception staff from its temporary inhabitants. Three cherubic faces peer through an opening: behind them, a drawing reads ‘Riksgränsen-Beautiful Days, Remain a Memory’.

The children ask Michaela, a member of the hotel staff, how to say particular phrases in English. She has learnt Arabic in her 3 months at Riksgränsen and patiently translates their phrases. The plastic mesh throws shadows across the foyer and over a group of Afghan men deep in discussion. Beside them sit two men hunched over a small table engrossed in a game of chess, they barely react as a child careers out of reception on a scooter.

This temporary Arctic refugee centre, situated in the northernmost municipality of Sweden, is a place of contrast. An eclectic mix of language, ethnicities, cultures, beliefs and socio-economic backgrounds. This mix of people have formed a close-knit community; one family is what you hear many residents call it. The phrase is included in a unique logo that has been created by the refugees at Riksgränsen and printed onto polo tops. The logo consists of a Swedish flag, alongside the flags of all the nationalities housed in the ski resort. 

‘Since people have started going, it feels like I am losing my family – Ali

Ali, 31, used to have his own radio channel in Iraq and is quick to show us a picture of his old recording suite. Another photo shows him at a political demonstration, an indication of why he felt he needed to leave. ‘Everyone has acted as a form of family, the staff, the other refugees and the teachers’ Ali tells us. The migration office can only confirm placements 24 hours before departure, but they have indicated to Ali that he may be transferred to Finland. He expresses sadness at having to leave, ‘since people have started going, it feels like I am losing my family’. Ali supports his broken English with body language and pictures on his phone. Ali, like many at the hotel, is determined to speak Swedish or English rather than rely on a translator. He smiles as he recounts how a Syrian couple met and got married at the hotel “the party was crazy, the staff had never seen such an event and celebrated with us the whole night’. 

The February weather is unseasonably mild, fluctuating between -15 and -10 degrees; the children, now veterans of the harshest of winters, bask in the relative warmth, wearing long-sleeved t-shirts as they play in the snow.

Inside the hotel, Moaz, from Salma in Syria, is watching Brooklyn, a romantic drama, on his phone. He is fluent in English and spends most of the day translating for people. Today’s duties include: helping people with their Migration slips, notifying them of where they will be taken by bus the next morning and working with a Farsi translator in overseeing his brother’s haircut by the resident Iranian Barber, Mehdi.

The need for translators is representative of the many cultural differences that exist within the group. ‘I have many Swedish friends, I spent Christmas with my friends in Kiruna (2 hrs south) and attended many parties; I understand the Swedes more than I do the Arabian or Asian People’. Moaz is quick to draw on how they are presented in the media, ‘we are very different, for example, there were around 100 Sudanese people when I arrived, I mean I had no idea about this country!’ The congruous spirit and harmonious atmosphere took time to develop, and at first, there were some teething problems. The weather was a challenge, and Moaz had to translate for many of the doctors; he describes severe skin diseases that developed from exposure to the-40 degrees, dry cold. The majority of residents had been sent on the 2,000 km journey from Malmö less than 24 hours after arriving in Sweden and were not prepared for the climate. ‘There are always some issues when you have this amount of people arriving, but now it is good. On TV you always see problems but in reality, we only saw solutions’ Moaz explains.

Moaz and his brother, Maed, have both had work permits accepted and will be employed by the hotel when Ski season arrives in late February. However, for many of the refugee’s working is a matter of pride and something to keep them busy. They work voluntarily as chefs, teachers, translators, hairdressers, musicians and gym instructors. The question: what do you plan to do now when you are relocated? eventually becomes redundant, the answers are all the same, ‘First learn Swedish, then work’. 

For the children, the hotel is an oversized playground. The steel mesh at reception has become a climbing frame, the foyer a racing track and Jimmy, the hotel’s handyman, a six-foot climbing frame. Michaela admits, ‘they are so frustrating, they just climb everywhere, but how can you be angry with them, just look at them’ she squeezes the cheeks of one of the smiling children who hugs her back.

Education

There is one place where the children behave, and that is the classroom. Moaz slows as he nears the makeshift school, you can sense trepidation from the group who are showing us to the classroom; he points at a stern-looking teacher, called Gunn Britt, and turns back down the staircase. The room, designed for conferences, contains a mock wooden cabin and several old maps hang on the wall. A child sheepishly, spits out some chewing gum into the bin Gunn Britt has thrust at him, and the class commences. The classes are smaller than a month before, and now there is roughly one teacher to every child, with a couple of children receiving private tuition.

The teachers are from the city of Kiruna and lodge during the week at the hotel. They have created an ad-hoc syllabus out of photocopied textbooks. Teaching Swedish was a challenge as they had no texts that showed translations from Arabic or Farsi. 

Standing a foot above the children is Abbas; he is 22 and determined to learn Swedish, so he joined every class he could, including all the children’s classes. He was an engineer in Afghanistan and has heard that you can study mining at Luleå University, also in the north of Sweden. Anita, one of the teachers, describes how she has never seen such a high level of motivation from such young children (between 5-12) ‘I have never met most of their parents, but the children come here every day by themselves and just want to learn’. It becomes obvious that there is an air of melancholy as the class nears its end, the numbers are already depleted, and next week all the children will have been placed elsewhere in Sweden. 

‘I have never met most of their parents, but the children come here every day by themselves and just want to learn’ – Anita

Boredom

The gym is crowded, it is no more than 30 sqm and certainly not designed to be a focal point of the hotel. However busy the gym is, a wide berth is always awarded to Mahmud, a decorated bodybuilder in his native Egypt. He loads every weight he can find in the gym onto the leg press, leaving his friend with only a bar, and with his Havaiana flip-flops squelching under pressure completes a few lifts before being distracted by his phone. 

‘when you have found good people, you have found a good place’ – Moaz

Many of the men have kept themselves busy by exercising. As we talk with them, it becomes evident that the gym’s popularity may be more relief from boredom than a genuine pursuit of fitness. Mohammed, 19, from Babylon in Iraq, uses the gym to keep himself occupied. He is happy in Riksgränsen, but he is getting restless and tells us he is eager to find somewhere to study Medicine; his father who is using the bicycle machine behind him, nods approvingly. 

The boredom is palpable during the day. People sit in corridors, surfing the internet on their smartphones, often the same devices that had guided them across Europe. Mohammad, 28, from Mosul in Iraq, has enjoyed his stay, but now with many of his friends leaving, he wants to join his girlfriend in Stockholm. He dismisses the possibility of moving right now with a flick of the wrist; ‘I have read the news, Stockholm is not good right now, we hear there are many problems’. He leans in and asks us ‘you live in Stockholm, is it this bad?’ With 163,000 asylum applications in 2015 public opinion over the refugee crisis had become increasingly polarised. Mohammed and his friends are happy to stay in the north of Sweden for now.

Relocation

Zakera apologises profusely for not being able to provide us with chocolates. Her family’s journey from Afghanistan was a treacherous one; the overcrowded boat they took between Turkey and Greece ran out of petrol. Stranded at sea, they had to be rescued by the coastguard. She hopes to move to Stockholm and asks about the culture and what the shops are like. Mahdi is amused by his wife’s questions, ‘we are fascinated by the differences here, Swedish people are very kind but things like marriage are very different’.

There is a bang at the door, startling everyone but their young son, who is fixated on his phone. Two representatives from the Swedish migration office are here to tell them they will be leaving the next day for new housing. Neighbours come in and general confusion ensues, Zakera looks to her husband in nervous excitement, their son completes a level on his game and joins them in the corridor. They are to be placed in Torpshammar which no-one, including the Migration officers, has heard of.

After the officers leave, we look at Torpshammer on the map, it is 1,000 km south of Riksgränsen, that means, for Zakera, 1,000 km closer to Stockholm. For many families like theirs, this will be their last placement. Perhaps sensing the importance of the situation, their son leaves them to digest the news, he takes their neighbour’s hand, and referring to him as ‘uncle’ he instructs him that they are to play. 

Housing refugees in Riksgränsen would never have happened if Sweden had been prepared for the number of refugees that have arrived since this crisis began. There was not enough housing available; sports halls, camping sites and student accommodation have all been utilised as a temporary solution. The decision to house these 600 refugees in the most remote area of Sweden was as resourceful as it was desperate. As the four-month contract ends, it is hard to see this emergency measure as anything other than an unprecedented success. In this remote Arctic landscape, these refugees have been able to acclimatise in a calm and secure environment. As we wait for our night train back to Stockholm, Moaz tells us why he wants to stay in Riksgränsen, quoting a Swedish priest who has befriended him ‘when you have found good people, you have found a good place’.